Schematic only: handle shape, blade grind and screw design vary by model. A thinning shear also has a toothed blade. On a narrow screen, scroll the diagram sideways to read its labels.
What each part does
- Blade tip
- The narrow end of the blade used for detail work. Blade points vary in width; a narrower point can help with small sections. Inspect a dropped pair for damage before using it again.
- Cutting edge
- The sharpened edge that cuts the hair. Makers offer different grinds, including convex and flat single-bevel designs. Check the exact model's blade description and the techniques it is made for.
- Ride line
- The inside contact area that helps the blades track against each other as they close. Keep the ride area clean and follow the maker's oiling instructions.
- Pivot & tension screw
- The joint that holds the blades together. Its screw or dial sets tension; too loose or too tight can affect cutting. Follow the adjustment method for your model, and see the tension troubleshooting guide.
- Shank
- The handle arm between the pivot and a ring. Its length and angle contribute to the grip and balance of the finished shear.
- Finger & thumb rings
- These openings hold the finger and thumb. Ring sizes vary, and inserts can reduce the opening on some models. An offset handle changes their relative position; try the grip in your usual cutting motion rather than choosing by shape alone.
- Finger rest (tang)
- The small projection beside the finger ring where the little finger can rest. Makers offer both permanent and removable rests; whether one helps depends on your grip and technique.
Maker references
Joewell explains blade shapes and points and handles, rings and screws. Mizutani's product manual covers screw tension, cleaning and oiling the pivot ride area. These examples describe model choices and care; they do not make the diagram a specification for every shear.
For the full vocabulary — steels, edges, techniques — head to the glossary, or see how the parts add up brand by brand in the directory.